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 Vic Falls sits on the Zambezi river, which doubles as the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Rich and I got up, had our all you can eat buffet breakfast (which was quickly becoming the norm) and decided to go across the bridge to the Zambian side of the falls for a look. We cleared immigration and immediately I could tell I was in a different country. Zimbabwe is so modern and with it, but once you cross the border one can tell that Zambia is a true Third World country.
The buildings are a bit more run down, the roads in poor condition – it was a totally different feeling and all we’d done was take a twenty five minute walk across the river. After looking at the crafts market just after Zambian immigration we wandered over to the falls where I laid down on the rocks and hung my head right over the edge so I could look right into the falls. You could almost feel nature’s true power when looking over the edge; the falls are so spectacular.
Too bad the falls are only fifty percent the size that they used to be. There’s been a major drought going on and the falls have been progressively getting smaller and smaller. We were forced to walk across 150 yards of rock that used to be covered with rushing water form the Zambezi – no longer. After sitting for a while at the falls we headed back towards the Zimbabwean border, but not before going back to the crafts market to see if there was anything I might need to send home before leaving Vic Falls. Since we didn’t know when the truck was going to be arriving we just bargained the dealers down a bit on certain items so they’d be cheaper when we returned to really buy them.
Couldn’t stay in the market too long – we were due back in Zimbabwe, for we were booked on a sunset booze cruise on the Zambezi river. We got back just in time to catch the shuttle to the boat. Since the Zambezi is chock full of crocodiles and hippos, why not go for an evening game-viewing cruise and get pissed in the process? The boat pulled away from the dock just as the first beer was opened and wine bottle uncorked. Our mobile cocktail party cruised down the river under a brilliant sunset while we watched the hippos pop their heads out of the water to see what the human folk were up to.
We did see quite a few of them, floating in the water with their mouths agape before they submerged to go looking for dinner. An hour or so and quite a few glasses of wine later we pulled back up to shore where we poured ourselves into the shuttle which would take us back into town. We went straight to one of the local hotels for more booze (just what we needed) and I ended up having a crocodile filet with cheese sauce. It was out of this worked – super tasty. Croc has the consistency of an overcooked fish stick, but doesn’t have a strong fish taste at all – it’s really nice.
After a few more drinks I left with Jenny and Stephanie because we were too drunk to cope. Hitched a ride with a Zim dude who graciously dropped us off at our chalet. Head hit the pillow and I was out like a light.
 Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe –
We all awoke at around 8:00 a.m. the next morning – mainly because we were so hungry, so Mike (the Brit), Rich and I went out to get some food. We started walking to the Vic Falls Hotel to get breaky, but we could see white mist rising up into the air over the tree line so we headed directly towards the falls instead. We got to the National Park, paid the fee and headed straight to the viewing areas.
Victoria Falls are 90 meters high and are one of the seven natural wonders of the world. They are spectacular – so majestic & so big! We were absolutely mesmerized by the falls themselves. The falls are larger than Niagra Falls and absolutely amazing. We were there are the perfect time of the morning where one is able to see two rainbows created by the mist being sent up into the sky by the thundering falls. We wandered through the park, stopping at every view point along the way. It was so amazing – every time we got to a new lookout the falls looked more and more spectacular.
The mist from the falls rains down on once certain part of the park and there’s a definite climactic change in that area. The mist has created a true rain forest in the middle of a very dry national park. Amazing. Plus, there are tone of monkeys and baboons playing in the trees and walking around all over the place. We wandered through the park for a couple of hours looking at the falls and watching the monkeys, but eventually we felt like we were participants in a hunger strike and our brains were beginning to deteriorate so we left the park in search of food.
We headed over to the Victoria Falls Hotel – the one place in the city which just exuded with colonialism. This hotel is so colonial. It is reminiscent of the Hotel Del Coronado, in atmosphere and architecture, and one could tell that this was once a true colonial hangout for the British expatriates. It’s elegantly decorated and their terrace looks out directly over the gorge where the Zambezi river runs. It is truly beautiful.
We got there too late for breakfast so the three of us sat on the terrace and had tea and scones instead. We were definitely in our element. After enjoying the colonialism of the hotel, we wandered through the local crafts market before heading back to the chalet at the campground to relax. Rich and I went back to the falls a second tie later that afternoon – they are truly mesmerizing – they draw you back again and again. After standing and looking at the falls for a few more hours we walked back to the chalet, stopping off at the post office to place a collect call to Sacramento to get the latest news flash from the family in California. We wandered around the city some more before heading to the chalet for some rest.
 Maun, Botswana to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe –
We woke up and packed up camp, for we had one and a half days of straight driving to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Had a quick pick me up smoke before getting on the truck then just vegged out for about ninety minutes. Once the truck had entered the Kalahari Desert we pulled over and sat there for about fifteen minutes while Steve tinkered around under the hod. Shortly thereafter Boz came on the truck and told us we’d lost all the oil pressure and that the truck wouldn’t be going to Vic Falls, or anywhere else for that matter for at least a week – it was dead.
This didn’t shock us too much – two tires and one engine later we were standing in the Kalahari Desert with nothing to do. Luckily some dudes driving a pickup truck stopped to help us out, and what do ya know, they were about to drive straight through to Vic Falls – approximately 600 kilometers (375 miles). We talked about it and decided to pile in the back of the pickup to drive the 300 odd miles to the Falls so we’d be in Zim that evening. The pickup was way windy and not that comfortable with all of us smashed in there, but five and a half hours later we arrived at the Botswana/Zimbabwe border.
 We arrived at 3:45 p.m. and the Zim border closed at 4:00 p.m. so we were going to have to be bloody quick to get fourteen people and a pickup through the border before it closed. We all cleared Botswanan immigration with no problems – it wasn’t until we got to the customs people that the fun began. They said that the dudes who owned the truck didn’t have the correct paperwork to let the truck out of the country and that they’d have to go back to Maun to get a letter from some official. The guys with the pickup told us to walk across the border and keep the immigration people busy until they could get the truck through.
We walked across the gravely no mans land part of the border and cleared Zim immigration, keeping both the immigration and customs people busy just by the sheer number of people we had in our party. The guys in the truck arrived a few minutes later and we got the truck through no problem. (I never did find out how they appeased the Botswanan customs officer.) back in the truck for the next two hour leg of the journey to Victoria Falls. We had to drive through a section of the Hwange National Park on the way and the driver was forced to keep slamming on his brakes as not to hit the water buck and various other animals that kept running out into the road.
Hit Vic falls and Boz got us a six bed chalet to stay in until our truck arrived. We were all beat, so after a few vodka tonics in the campground bar it was off to bed.
Okavango Delta, Botswana –
We were all tired from camping out on the Delta so we packed up our camp and got back in the makoros to work our way back to civilization. One relaxing makoro ride, one exhilarating speed boat ride and one very long, hot and dusty safari vehicle ride across the desert later we were back at our campsite. The truck was in town doing errands so we headed to the bar where I wad what tasted like the most refreshing vodka tonic I can ever recall. We stayed in the bar for a while until the truck returned so we could get cleaned up enough to go back to the bar to party.
We got pretty wrecked, entertained by the Botswanans playing their favorite bar game (next to darts). Most bars have a huge twenty foot pole in the center of the room – it’s wooden, polished and might possibly be lacquered, but it’s slick. The locals all try to climb to the pole and if you reach the top you get a bottle of booze. (Unverified info.) It was a really cool watching various people make their attempts at climbing the pole – it kept us entertained for a very long time. When I got bored with that I went back to my tent to go to bed. Everyone staggered back to their tents, but an hour or so later Steve, our driver and Mike, the Brit, came around to rally everyone back to the bar for round two. I’d run out of Botswanan pula (the local currency) so I was just sitting around the bar when Steve and Mike said they’d “found” a canoe on the shore and had been paddling out onto the delta.
We went down to the water and all climbed into the canoe. With Steve as or driver he paddled us out into the middle of the Delta where we proceeded to have a smoke under the stars. It was brilliant. We had some minor navigational problems going back to shore for the current was pushing us against the opposite side of the waterway. After very little perseverance we made it back to shore just in time to follow everyone back to camp to go to bed.
Quick Delta side note: On Thanksgiving Rich and I didn’t ever know it was a holiday. It started when I asked Rich the day of the week because I couldn’t remember. I knew what the date was because I’d been writing in the journal, but the day of the week didn’t seem to matter. “Thursday,” he responded. Thursday! It was the third Thursday in November – Thanksgiving! We had our a Thanksgiving dinner of canned spaghetti mixed with baked beans cooked over an open fire – yum, yum.
 Thanksgiving, Middle of the Okavango Delta, Botswana –
We woke up at 6:00 a.m. to start our elephant trek – our guides were taking us walking around the island we were staying on. We walked inland quite a distance from clearing to clearing spotting tons o’animals along the way. The animals are really funny; they’ll run away a bit then stand there and stare at you; run some more and stand and stare at you. Throughout the course of our walk we saw (in order of appearance): red buck, impala, baboons, a stork and a tsesedbe (one we can’t spell OR pronounce) to name a few. We also came upon a herd of wildebeests who had one zebra hanging out with them. The thing is that the wildebeests are so stupid that when they went to go run away from us they ended up running around in a circle in the clearing. The poor zebra started running in a different direction and since the wildebeests didn’t know any better they started following the zebra. As we were walking off it appeared that the zebra no longer wanted to hang out with a bunch of animals with brains smaller than its own, but every time it went anywhere the plebe wildebeests would follow.
We started walking back to our camp when we came across a herd of buffalo standing in a clearing. Now buffalo are a totally dangerous African animal with a bad attitude. The locals are way scared of them and make every attempt not to piss them off. The buffalo have this reputation for always being in a bad mood, even though they don’t look that menacing with their 1950’s boufontic looking hair-dos (that would be their curved horns).
When we saw the herd the guides told us to be really quiet while we watched and waited for then to run away. After a while the buffalo got bored and headed off to the next clearing in a cloud of dust with the thundering of hooves. We started back towards our camp again, but after another twenty minutes of walking we found yet another herd of buffalo grazing in a huge field. We sat there behind the trees and bushed watching them for a while, but the buffalo knew we were there and wouldn’t move – they just stared back. Our guide shook a sapling and clapped, which effectively sent the buffalo to the far side of the clearing so we could pass. We started walking out into the open field towards our camp – each of us eyeing the buffalo as we went. The buffalo were too curious and really wanted to know more about these people walking through the field, so the entire herd (about 150 of them started slowly making their way towards us as we meandered by. This was really disconcerting to us humans, so we took a few quick steps towards the trees (which we were going to use as viewing towers should the buffalo get any closer). We stood there and stared the buffalo down until they moved back a bit so we could continue to cross this field.
We left the safety of the trees and actually crossed in front of the herd. This was really groovy for the herd as now they could get an up close and personal look at a human. Slowly but surely the buffalo began to walk across the field trying to get a better look at us. When the buffalo got a little too close one of the guides began to jog a bit towards the trees (which were 30 meters away). When a local begins to take quick steps, normal white people run. We all ran a few yards away then stopped to see where the buffalo were – just in case they’d decided to follow. We rather looked like the animals that had been pulling the same method of viewing us as we entered each clearing. We were now the smaller animal on the food chain and apparently, instinctively, used the same technique. The buffalo were far enough away for us to continue to cross the field, but we all still had a certain amount of adrenaline running through our veins until we got to the next set of trees – where we know we could easily escape.
It was walking across the field where it hit me that I have come this far to see these animals in their own environment. This is their turf, and when a herd of buffalo decide they’re going to eat some Europeans for dinner there’s nothing anyone can do about it. It’s exciting seeing this stuff first hand – especially like the buffalo – but it makes you realize that this is the true, wild Africa – the one we came here to see.
We finally made it back to camp after our three hour nature hike and immediately made a bee-line for our drinking water as we were all parched. We’d brilliantly forgotten to bring our large jerry can of drinking water so we were forced to boil pot after pot of Delta water for drinking. Not the best tasting stuff, but it did the trick and none of us managed to get sick. Later that afternoon there was an optional ride in the boats which I opted out of because I was beat. We made dinner a short while later and when we looked across the field from our row of tents we spotted a giraffe munching on a tree, followed by a herd of wildebeests who thought a jog across the field might be good fun.
It’s amazing to see these animals just wandering around in the wild. We had the most surreal sunset that evening. So beautiful – you’d never believe the colors nature can come up with, plus we had the perfect crescent moon hanging in the sky with Venus just below it. A photograph wouldn’t have done this scene justice – it was too beautiful. After another night of gazing at the stars (while trying to track down the Southern Cross – as usual) it was time to turn in – we were going back to Maun the next day.
Maun, Botswana –
The morning of the 23rd we packed up and headed for the Botswanan border; we were on our way to the Okavango Delta. Once in Botswana we drove all day across the northern tip of the Kalahari Desert (spotting ostrich running away from the truck along the way) before pulling over and setting up camp in the middle of no where. Shortly before diner I pulled the gin bottle out of our mobile bar on the truck and had a gin (or two) while watching the spectacular African sunset. [Bugs everywhere that night – loads of flying beetles]
We were on the road again the morning of the 24th, on our way to Maun where we’d stay before going out on the Delta. Drove most of the day, which gets old after a while. The truck rattles around so much that writing is completely out of the question, reading takes major effort because you’ve got to follow the page jump around in your hand, so there’s nothing else to do but sit there. We were so bored on the may to Maun that I started mixing gin and tonics at 11:00 a.m. – it was well needed.
Hit Maun and headed to the Island Safari Lodge, from where we’d be taken to the Delta the following day. This campground and also had a bunch of private rooms so there was a swimming pool, a snack shop and a bar – we headed to the bar for a few drinks before heading off to bed. I don’t know what was going on with the weather, but at about 2:00 a.m. this windstorm came up and both Rich and I honestly believed the tent was going to either blow away or just collapse onto us. The winds were nothing like I’d experienced – if you’re ever been in one of the wind storms in Scotland you’re not too far off. The winds were so strong – they must have been going majorly fast. Rich says they were not hurricane force.
Went back to sleep with the wind howling away, only to be awakened a few hours later by the rising sun. We got up and got ready for the Delta. We were going out for three days ad two nights to be punted in a makoro through the vast Delta’s waterways. The makoro is sort of like a Malawian dugout, only they’re really deep and when you’re sitting in them the water is only 3-4 inches below the level of the boat. We were picked up by a ranger from the Delta who drove us thirty minutes through the Botswanan desert over to the delta’s edge where we met yet another park ranger in a speedboat, ready to take us farther in. We jumped in his speedboat and went for a thrilling thirty minute ride through the tall reeds to a village on one of the delta’s islands. These rangers know what they’re doing when they’re flying through the one lane water channel, turning the boat so it rides up on the reeds when a sharp turn is ahead. The boat ride was like an amusement park ride – it was that cool.
 Once we arrived at the locals’ village we were transferred in pairs to the makoro boats to go even deeper into the Delta. It was so peaceful gliding through the reeds while lying in the bottom of this boat with my head at the level of the water. It took us a few hours to get to our campsite and by this time we were all ready to get out of the sun – it was so hot that day. We setup camp ad made dinner then sat around looking at the sunset.
Sunsets in Africa are like nothing I’ve ever seen. There’s no pollution when you’re out in the bush, so the colors of the sky are so much more brilliant. We sat and watched the colors blend in the sky and once the sun was gone we would turn around and face the field behind the tents, for there weren’t any obstructions, allowing us to have a clear view of the velvet tapestry of stars that came out every night. Sans moonlight the stars were incredibly bright and the sky did look as though the stars were just sewn onto a piece of black velvet. I don’t think I’ve ever seen the stars so clearly. (This was better viewing than in Malawi.)
When the sun went down all the small frogs living in the reeds started to croak. It’s not actually a croak – it’s the peaceful sound that’s similar to the sound that bamboo wind chimes make when they lightly bang together. It was really relaxing sitting there listening to the frogs while looking up at the sky. Alas, we finally went to bed for we were going to look for elephants the next day.
NOTE: From this point forward the dates and locations of the section headers now correspond with the actual events.
We were all really excited – it was our first safari in search of a dangerous animal. Our vehicle was a converted VW minivan with holes cut in the roof so everyone could standup to see the animals. We got to the park where Wally, our Rhodesian guide took us walking around while telling us about the environment. We jumped in the van and went for a short drive hunting the rhino, but none seemed to want to come out of hiding. We then stopped for lunch and met two other minivans of safairiers.
This safari company – “Black Rhino” is so nice. The guides are all Rhodesians, well educated and amazingly friendly. Plus they pampered us. They would set up the chairs for us, they would make something for us to drink, etc. It was really classy. Great food and they could tell you about anything in the park.
After lunch we started off towards the game park, all becoming anxious and excited to find some big animals. On the way to the park we came upon two other safari vans, each with 6-8 people all aiming cameras at something in the bush. We got over to them as quickly as possible because we wanted to play with our cameras too! This stop turned out to be a giraffe munching on a tree with a herd of zebra not too far off behind it. The giraffe couldn’t have cared less about the minivans, but the zebra all stared at us for a spell before running off. The giraffe just walked around behind the tree, making us become bored with it so we started up the minivan and moved on towards the park.
 At the park entrance the ranger told us to go right around the corner from his booth, for there were some rhino over there. We turned the van around and drove around the corner to spot a white rhino with her four month old baby standing next to her. It was amazing standing there watching the rhino graze. Since rhino have really poor eyesight the mother couldn’t see us from where we were standing, but the baby could hear us and became really angry and started running around. The mother began to walk away a bit, then would stop and eat for a while. We stood there watching them for fifteen to twenty minutes before turning around and heading off into the middle of the game park.
Once in the park all of us were standing up looking for game. Our van pulled up to another giraffe that we watched for a while. We drove around the park and saw many different animals for our first safari. We saw white and black rhino (the animal of the day), giraffe, zebra, warthogs, impala and crocodiles (from a distance). At about 4:00 p.m. we pulled up to a game viewing hut where we got our afternoon tea with pound cake, Unbelievable – it was really civilized. One of the girls on the other trucks screamed out, “Love those Rhodesians – they’ve always got to have their afternoon tea.” We all had a chuckle over that one. After tea it was another short drive through the park where we saw a herd of wildebeests before heading back to Bulawayo for the night.
I took my five minute courtesy look and got back in the truck. A few stayed behind in the truck because they thought it’d be boring, and they were right. The dung beetles rolling their ball down the steps was more interesting. Once everyone was back if was off to Bulawayo, driving all day to get there. We were trucking along when BOOM! Our other rear tire had experienced a sudden increase in road temperature, combined with almost no tread, causing a large explosion. (That’s just a long-winded way to say “blow out”) Our second time – now we really couldn’t believe it. Changed another tire before rolling into the City of Bulawayo campsite.
We set up camp then went out to dinner. We then had the first of many a smoking session with Steve the driver. Off to bed, for the next morning we were going on our first big game hunt.
Woke up the morning of the 23rd ready to go find some Rhino. We were off to the Rhodes Matapos National Park to check out some black and white rhino. The only thing is that the rangers have been de-horning the rhinos to try to prevent them from being poached, so the rhinos hide when they hear vehicles approaching.
Jim is really good natured, able to talk to anyone and seems intelligent. Tom doesn’t appear to be that educated at all. He says things like, “If you eat a bulb of garlic you’ll be really healthy. I haven’t tried this myself, but . . .” Things like that. Throughout the course of this trip I’ll jot down some of the classic quotes as I remember them.
We are also going to be travelling with a British guy we met at the Sable, who signed up at the pre-departure meeting. His name’s Mike, but he told us his nickname is Gully – for gullible. This guy is so British and so vain. Without offending anyone if I could choose some Chi Phis to compare to this guy I’d choose myself, Nils, pat Devlin, Alex Miller & Derek. Take the general characteristics of these guys and roll them up into a vain guy who didn’t know what he was getting himself into when he signed up for the safari. I’m vain, but I knew what I was getting myself into – it’ll be interesting to see what Gully’s reaction (or mine for that matter) will be when we have to push the truck out of the thigh-high deep mud in Zaire. These are the only other guys on the trip – there’s eleven of us on a truck build for eighteen. The girls are all Gamma Phi beta caliber; four New Zealanders, one Aussie and surprisingly one American. Two of the Kiwis are names Raewyn and Judy – really cool girls, main un peut laide. Tina is wholesome – the homely type. Then there’s Jenny. Jenny is friends with the American girl Stephanie, both of whom lived in Amsterdam together. They’re definitely liberal and free spirited. Jenny’s the graphic designer, creative one where Stephanie’s more the Berkeley nature type. Both are really cool. Finally there’s Brenda the Aussie girl, a little older, maybe a mature 29 or 31. She’s really cool, a mellow woman with a crew cut and quite a few earrings. She works at a cemetery doing the paperwork for coffins, plots, etc. It’s bizarre when she tells us stuff like, “If you’re cremated and buried in the ground you don’t have any legal rights to the land.” Bizarre. That’s just one of the useful bits of info we’ve picked up. The whole group appears to work pretty well together.
And there we go. The morning of the 20th we woke up, packed our bags and went over to the hotel to meet our truck driver and trip coordinator (don’t let those titles fool you). Boz is our “trip coordinator” who is just another Kiwi dude having a good time. The only problem is that he hasn’t been on many of the optional excursion trips so he can never tell us anything about them. Steve is our Aussie driver who’s so mellow. We befriended him because he’s the man to get some cobs from. It appears that our pot is just included in the price of the trip – it’s been fun. Steve’s a funny guy – he’s rugged, like he’s experienced in driving a truck through East Africa, but he doesn’t look the part. He’s got my wiry build only shorter. Too funny.
O.K. let’s move on. The truck finally arrived (it hadn’t been completely fixed before we were to leave) so we piled all our gear on and started our journey out of Harare. Rich and I were relieved, we were finally starting some of the more rugged travelling. It’ll be good; we were relaxed in Malawi after tearing around Egypt, and then we’ll relax again in India after our rugged safari. Our huge German M.A.N. truck with the sides rolled up headed out of Harare to the sound of Brad’s Eric Clapton tape.
The truck is really large – it’s got two rows of seats sitting up on a raised stage area, then there are twelve airplane type seats all the way back. Plus there’s a semi-decent stereo to we can blare our music for everyone to hear. We were heading south west to Masovingo where we’d get to see the Great Zimbabwe Ruins. The ruins consist of some towers and walls from an old city that used to sit up on these hills. Now I wasn’t too psyched on these things at all. After living in Great Britain for over a year I have seen so many ruins of old castles and forts I wasn’t too interested in this one.
We were cruising along when out left rear tire had a blowout. We couldn’t believe it, it was our first day out! We pulled over and had lunch while we changed the tire, so it didn’t seem that bad. Back in the truck to drive through the scrub dry land onward to Masovingo. Arrived at the campsite in the early evening and pitched our tents. After our dinner (cooked over an open fire) we began the quest for the elusive Southern Cross. Rich and I mentioned our trouble in finding it to everyone else, but no one seems to know where it is, and these people are from the Southern hemisphere. Haven’t asked Jim or Tom yet, so there’s still a glimmer of hope.
Got up in the morning of the 21st and drove to the Ruins themselves.
 We left Cape MacLear two days ago on a bus to Blantyre. The bus ride wasn’t nearly as unpleasant as the one to Monkey bay, and we got to go through some beautiful countryside. Blantyre is the industrial center of Malawi, with not a lot to offer the backpacker. We stayed in this Christian youth hostel for the outrageous sum of K50.00 (Us$10) for the dorm. Rich was less than thrilled with our side trip to Blantyre (he wanted to stay on the lake another day).
We slept there the night then woke up the morning of the 17th in order to catch our bus to Lilongwe. Got on the bus and each had a seat to ourselves during the five hour ride. The road we took to Lilongwe is the frontier road with Mozambique, so I was excited at the prospect of being so close to a country where it’s not a good idea to visit at the moment. The MNZ breakaway group in Mozambique was been shooting at trucks and buses in the Tete corridor, but nothing happens on the road we were travelling. After a while we came upon a brick building on the left hand side of the bus It was the Mozambique immigration post, and for the next 77 kilometers the bus rarely stopped as we sped past the country in the throes of a civil war. Looking at what we saw it looked peaceful and beautiful like Malawi, but I knew there were other things happening there. The bus made it to Lilongwe where we found a room in the local rest house. Riding buses in these third world countries is a real experience. The people can bring whatever they want on the buses (the woman in front of us had a guinea fowl in her lap on the way to Monkey bay), and there doesn’t seem to be any maximum capacity of people. If there’s room, then more people will get on. When you’re on these extensive bus rides if you forget to bring food you’re going to get really hungry. Don’t fret – there’s usually at least ten Malawian children at all major bus stops, adorned with baskets full of food for sale to ravenous passengers. First you haggle for the price of the . . . (samosa, fruit, bread) whatever. The kids raise the baskets over their head and you take what you want and leave the money in the basket. No problem. You can get food and drink virtually everywhere. We could eat without ever leaving the bus. Drinks are a bit harder to come by – it gets complicated with the bottle deposits, trading an empty for a full – things like that.
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